Saturday 15 October 2011

Freedom - Final Ride... or is it?

Niagara River - Most of our ride today was along the river.
Niagara Falls

Niagara River

Along the Niagara River

 Check back through blog - pictures have been updated. :-)
Saturday
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 48.008km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  301.38km
We didn’t have sun, for most of the ride we didn’t have rain but we did have 45km per hour winds!! We started in Niagara by the falls and biked to Fort Erie and back again. Our entire trip was along the Niagara River. It was a great trail – it is just too bad the weather didn’t co-operate.


Chippewa Memorial


Niagara is a historic city.  In addition to its efforts on the Underground Railroad, there are a lot of significant events that took place here during the War of 1812.  Along the trail was the site of the Battle of Chippewa – a famous battle of the War of 1812. There was a memorial park area. It had a monument and information panels detailing the battle. It was quite interesting.

For part of our ride today, Audrey and I got separated. At first I thought she was ahead of me but somehow I passed her and we didn’t know. She thought I was behind her – anyway, we spent a bunch of time looking for each other. For a while I alternated between the thought that she was just fine and was only around the corner and panic that something had happened to her. She felt the same way. In the end we were both fine and all is good and we finished our ride with over 300kms! If the weather had of been better this weekend, I am sure we could have went farther. On our drive home, I was thinking about when Audrey and I were separated and how that happened to so many families on their escape north along the Underground Railroad. If you got separated from loved ones - Do you stop and go back? Go on without them? It must have been difficult.
I can’t say enough about how amazing it has been to travel with Audrey and Rod! They have both been awesome. I hope they have enjoyed this journey as much as I have. J
I also can’t thank those of you who sent me messages or emails with your love and good wishes. I am lucky to have so many wonderful people in my life! :-D
Sadly, this portion of the Freedom Trail Adventure is done – FOR NOW! As I said I plan on continuing once I return home.  I will do a final update from home and update some of the pictures that took too long to load on the road. I will keep you posted when the next part of the Freedom Trail Adventure continues.
Until then...think about and be thankful for all you have - especially your....
FREEDOM

Audrey and Me with our bikes. :-)


We have reached the Promised Land...Stories of Freedom

Crossing the Niagara River into Canada

Some fugitives swam across this river in order to reach freedom.
 Friday
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 6km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  253km
Today was a travel day. We left Erie, Pennsylvania and headed across the Niagara River towards Canada – The Promised Land as it was often referred to.
The Crafts
While on this trip we have learned about a number of stories of successful slaves (either at the museums, books, information panel, etc.) and how they were able to escape. One bold couple were able to make a daring escape. William and Ellen Craft escaped from Georgia. Ellen was very pale skinned. She dressed up in a top hat and a fancy suit like she was a planter. He husband tied a bandage around her head like she had a toothache and gave her a sling for her arm. This way she didn’t have to talk (because she sounded like a woman) or write (which she couldn’t because she didn’t know how to write). They masqueraded as a master and slave – William as her slave did the talking and organizing for her while on the trip. Ellen slept in first-class accommodations and William in the slave quarters. They managed to do this ALL the WAY TO Philadelphia!! Amazing! I can’t think how terrified they must have been thinking that at any moment they would be discovered.
Canada
Yesterday, I wrote about Harriet Tubman. She actually lived in St. Catherine’s for eight years. When the Civil War started, she returned to the U.S. to help the Northern States. All that I have read about her talks of her ‘brutal and horrible’ treatment as a slave. In one way, I am glad it has not been described; I can only imagine how awful it was. Harriet was described by a fellow abolitionist as a quite ordinary woman with a bravery that was unprecedented at that time nor will it be in the future. I can’t imagine going back to the U.S. after escaping but she was resolved to ensure others didn’t suffer one more moment as a slaves.
I also didn’t know that Dresden, Canada was the home of Josiah Henson (his home is still there). He is said to have been the character Harriet Beecher Stowe based TOM in Uncle Tom’s Cabin on. He was a trustworthy slave to his master and was often given high responsibilities around the plantation. However, once he realized that the master planned on selling his children – he and his entire family made their escape. Once he arrived in Canada he visited England in attempts to raise money for his “Uncle Tom’s British Institute” which became the first vocational school in Canada. His intent was for the school to give fugitives an opportunity to learn self-supporting skills.
I have never heard of Edgar or Oro Ontario. The Oro area was known for its gold during this time. A portion of the township was intended for liberated slaves. To make them feel more at ease, they called the town Oro after Rio del Oro which was on the west coast of Africa. Oro is the Spanish word for gold. James Dixon Thompson died in 1947 and was the last escaped slave to live in Oro Township. I know many slaves talked about ‘following the drinking gourd’ or North Star but I wondered what they did when it was cloudy at night? I know they followed the moss that grows on the north side of the trees – but how could they see that on a dark night? I found out that they actually FELT the bottoms of trees for the moss when they couldn’t see at night! Imagine trying to get somewhere on a dark night and stopping and feeling trees to make sure you were on the correct path? Amazing!
Also in Canada in Maidstone (near Windsor) is the site of the Walls family home. John Freeman Walls was an escaped slave from North Carolina. He fell in love with and married his late owner’s wife!!! They came to Canada and purchased land and built a home. He had double walls in the home. Although they were in Canada, he built it this way to protect people when slave catchers crossed the border to look for slaves to take them back south. I CAN’T imagine making it all the way to freedom and feeling safe here and then being captured and taken back!!!!   Outside their home today is a sign indicating the exact number of miles various slaves walked from various states to freedom.
As a result of this trip, I realize that I have learned a lot but it has only made me more curious. There are a number of places I haven’t seen and I plan to visit all of those that are in Canada when I return home and continue this journey. I do believe this is a journey that I will never finish. J
Today was a travel day so we only had a short ride until the rain drove us indoors. Tomorrow we plan to cycle along the Niagara Trail. Niagara was a place that many abolitionists and conductors on the Underground Railroad met and formulated plans, helped newly arrived fugitives, establish settlements and more!
Wish for sunny skies. We hope to make it over 300km! :-D

Thursday 13 October 2011

Getting Closer to the 'Promised Land...

Today a good portion of our journey was in wine country. Rows and rows of grape vines. The smell was amazing. In a number of the vineyards, they were harvesting the grapes.

 Thursday
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 44km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  247km


Today, the rain held off (until this evening) and we had a day of clouds and a few times the sun managed to peek through. I am not complaining because this is much better than the rain we cycled through all day yesterday. :-)

Rod dropped Audrey and me off in Ripley, New York. As we were unloading our bikes, Audrey realized that she had forgot her key to her bike lock! We had our bikes locked together on the truck. The plan was to bike from Ripley, NY back here to Erie, PA. It took about 45min-60min to get there and we would have had to come back here and pick up the key and go back again. We decided to try to see if a shop in town had cutters or something so we could cut off the lock instead of driving 90min or 2 hours back and forth. As we were driving we saw a young man and his dad with a work truck. We pulled in and asked if they could help. I mentioned in my last blog how friendly most people we have met have been. Well this guy didn't disappoint us.  He helped us and we got back on our way within 20min. (Mind you it was REALLY difficult to get the lock off).

Audrey coming down a hill as we cycled along Lake Erie.
We got on our way. It was going to be a little over 40km to Erin, PA. The ride today we a bit hilly and challenged us for sure! The ride today was bittersweet for me. Tomorrow we leave for Niagara Falls, Canada so that means this was our last ride on the Freedom Trail in the U.S. We have covered the 5 states we planned to cycle the Freedom Trail on. So I was a bit sad it was the last U.S. ride. However, the ride was beautiful. We cycled along the southern shore of Lake Erie. The colours were gorgeous and what struck me today was the variety of smells. For a good portion of the beginning of the ride, we were in wine country. All we could smell was the tangy smell of grapes! We also passed an evergreen forest and the fresh scent of trees was amazing. The properties were fairly large and one man was cutting his grass so we could smell the freshly cut grass and chives. Someone else was chopping wood and then a wood burning fire!! The entire ride was with a beautiful view of Lake Erie. This was a lake that many fugitives crossed into Canada and into Freedom.

Tomorrow, we will make our trek across the boarder and into Niagara Falls. We will do a portion of the Freedom Trail in that area.

 
I went to university in St. Catharine's and didn't realized that Harriet Tubman lived there for a number of years and had re-located her family there while she worked fervently bringing fugitives across the border to Canada.
(click here to read more about Harriet Tubman: http://www.nyhistory.com/harriettubman/life.htm)

Tomorrow we cross the Niagara River into the "Promised Land".

Wednesday 12 October 2011

Rainy Trail

Tuesday
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 5km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  173km
Today, we left East Forks, Ohio and headed north to Pennsylvania. It was a fairly long drive and took most of the day. We made it to the campsite and we have internet - yeah!! So Rod doesn't have to drive me to McDonald's to update my blog. :-D
It was late when we arrived and we only had a little bit of daylight but Audrey and I managed to get in 5km of biking.

Wednesday

Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 30km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  203km

Today, our luck of sunny skies and great weather ran out. It rained through much of the night and ALL day. Audrey and I packed up our bikes and headed out onto the trail. It pretty much rained the entire time we were cycling. We went 30km along a rail trail (converted railroad track into trail path) from Rock City, OH to Ashtabula, OH. We are staying in Erin, PA but we backtracked a bit to cycle that part of the route.
Audrey and I are following a mapped trail of one (there are MANY) routes that fugitives used to make their way from the states via the Underground Railroad to Canada. It has been mapped out by the Cycling Association and is called the FREEDOM TRAIL. The Freedom Trail not only follows one of the routes along the Underground Railroad, it travels by numerous historical points of interest that are connected to the Underground Railroad.  As we cycle, we often stop at the museums, historical homes, etc. Today while cycling, the rail trail had these small boards with different stories about local people who were a part of the Underground Railroad in this area. We could ride along the trail and then along the way we could stop and read different information. Today's ride was enjoyable but would have been so much nicer if the weather co-operated. :-D By the time we are finished, Audrey and I hope to have cycled over 300km, through 5 different states (Kentucky, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York) and into Canada and along the Niagara Trail.  
One of the stories we read about today was about the Hubbard family. After Audrey and I reached Ashtabula, Rod met up with us up, we went to the historical landmark Hubbard home which is in Ashtabula.
Colonel Hubbard was in the military during the War of 1812 (interesting). He purchased land along Lake Erie, where some other members of his family had settled. His family were also abolitionists.  Hubbard continued the tradition and he and his wife helped fugitive slaves get safe passage across the lake into Canada. The video link below shows the Hubbard house and talks about slaves running from the house silently at night to awaiting row boats to take fugitives to awaiting boats. This may have happened but the Hubbard's actually built an underground tunnel from their barn to the water's edge to make the final trek to Lake Erie easier and safer. Ashtabula is able to say that no fugitives were ever caught in their community. All that arrived there - made it to Freedom.


(Click here for more info about the Hubbard House:http://www.hubbardhouseugrrmuseum.org/about.htm)

(Click here for a short video about the Hubbard House: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-xC7Vrf_CA)
As always, while cycling, there is time for reflection about things I have learned along this journey. When we were in Buxton, I bought one of the Dear Canada books about the Underground Railroad. The series is written as a journal and is about different young girls in different time periods in Canadian history. During the story, Julie May and her family are running from the south. One night, they are sleeping in the forest and it starts to rain, and then snow a little!!
(click here to see info about the book: http://www.scholastic.ca/dearcanada/books/adesperateroad.htm)
I was thinking about it while I was riding today in the rain. Audrey and I were out riding in the rain for about 3 hours. We were wearing waterproof jackets and were dressed for the weather. However, the times we stopped to read the Underground Railroad boards, it got chilly. It wasn't the most pleasant ride today but it made me think about Julie May and others who had to STAY out in the rain/snow and at the end of 3 hours didn't get to go inside to a warm drink, food, and a change of clothes. We didn't mind our rainy ride today because the 'discomfort' of the rain was going to end and we knew it. But what kind of toll would take take on you if you had to remain out in the rain - all day, all night - without food and a waterproof jacket. Audrey and I chatted a bit about it when I told her what I was thinking. She said it made her think back to the museum we went to in New Albany: Ordinary People - Extraordinary Courage. Yes, they did have courage that was extraordinary. I really can't think of too many things in our modern day life that would challenge our courage as much as this group of people's courage was for so long of a time until they reached Freedom. 
Tomorrow, we head to the tip of New York and will cycle back here towards Pennsylvania.

Sunset in East Forks, Ohio


Monday 10 October 2011

Happy Turkey Day

Monday - Happy Thanksgiving
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 50km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  168km
Today, Rod dropped Audrey and me off back in Milford which is where we finished yesterday. Today we were cycling the Little Miami Rail Trail. It used to be a railroad track. It was no longer used and they have paved the trail for cyclists, walker/joggers, etc. The trail is the longest paved trail in the U.S. It goes up from here to Pennsylvania.  It was a great stretch to bike today. We had minimal road crossings and it was great to not have to deal with cars on the road. J This showed in the distance we were able to cover today. The trail was in full fall colours and was simply amazing. Leaves were falling on us as we cycled. It was a perfect temperature.
On the bike trail there were lots of animals scurrying along the trail, (chipmunks, squirrels, etc.). Today while riding - I ACTUALLY HIT A SQUIRREL with my bike!! Audrey and I were riding almost side by side and squirrels and chipmunks were darting in and across the path. The squirrel dodged Audrey’s bike but must not have seen mine and went THUNK right into my front tire! Luckily, he didn’t get caught in the spokes and darted back into the brush. I have no idea if he was ok or not and luckily, I didn’t wipe out on my bike! Although, I did squeal like crazy when it happened! LOL!
While riding, I was thinking about the distance Audrey and I are going - slow progress but we know at the end of this - we are going to make it make home. How many travelled this journey and never made it? I know approximately 40,000 fugitives made it to Canada. How many didn't?
A little Thanksgiving reflection - A lot of things we have learned on this trip have made me very appreciative of all I have and the freedom I enjoy. For that - I am thankful.
Tomorrow, we pack up and head to Pennsylvania to continue our northern trek on the trail. :-)

Here is Audrey and I after our 50 km ride - just kidding! :-D


Here is how I really looked...











..and how great Audrey looked too.


Tell the historian - Tell the ugly Truth - Don't let it happen again...

Sunday
Freedom Center - Slave Pen
I wanted to add some further updates from yesterday’s trip to the National Underground Railroad – Freedom Center. Yesterday, I wrote about the slave pen. The man who had the pen in the 1800s was John W. Anderson of Maysville, OH. He was a professional slave broker and itinerant trader. There was a tribute to some of the slaves that had been held in the pen outside of it on a plaque, it is called Tell. The second part really struck me…

Tell the historian
Tell the ugly truth
Of why they
Brought us here
Tell the rulers of this land
Don’t let it happen again
Carl B. Westmoreland
I think that Westmoreland points out an important point in that we need to look back at history, no matter how ugly or painful, in order to make sure that certain things don’t happen again.  I couldn’t help but think of those people as I sat in that slave pen, trying to imagine how they could have possibly endured what they did. I know a lot of the quotes I have seen/read so far talk about the enslaved choosing liberty/freedom or death but a choice was NOT to remain a slave. I am not sure I could have endured what they did and I think that sometimes death would seem like a better option than what they were forced to live through.

Henry ‘Box’ Brown
The next interesting exhibit was a favourite of mine (it has a happy ending) is about Henry ‘Box’ Brown. Henry is the slave who escaped by having some friends (abolitionists) mail him in a box to Ohio (this was prior to 1850). His story became a famous inspiration to other fugitives trying to make their way to freedom. They had the picture book called Henry’s Freedom Box in the museum. It is a book I read to the students at school. They took turns trying to sit quietly in a cardboard box like Henry for a short period of time. Henry was actually in the box for 27 hours! There was NO room to move around and at one point, train workers tipped the box upside down (even though it said – ‘this side up’) and he managed to make it without being discovered. Yeah! J



Safe Houses
There was a lot of information about safe houses and people along the Underground Railroad that opened their homes to fugitives. There were a lot of different places to hide people: in the barn, cellars, under the floor boards (this seems claustrophobic but if you are running for your life – do-able), in cupboards, under stairwells, secret rooms, false bottoms in wagons – the list goes on! In some cases, people built underground tunnels to the river, another house, or another location for easy escape! So clever!
 
 

False bottom in the lower part of a wagon - a way to hide fugitives while transporting them to the next stop on the 'railroad'.
 

Equal Rights?
I mentioned in my first post, the feeling that for most of history (and in some countries today) women do not have equal rights and were property of their husband or male relatives. There was an exhibit that showed the history of Women’s Rights during this time period (the center is the National Freedom Center – and Freedom is for ALL!) and their fight for the “Vote” and rights. Susan B. Anthony was a famous suffragette and discussed that the status of women as property was similar to slaves (sometimes not as difficult but property nonetheless). Many of these women worked for equal rights for themselves and for blacks. They raised large quantities of money through quilts, sewing bees, needlepoint, etc. in order to help/assist the abolitionist cause. They saw the connection between them – they were property and had NO RIGHTS or equality. Many women suffered greatly in this fight. Once again, I am reminded that I am glad that I did not live in this time.

Deciding to Escape
Many fugitives had to make the decision to escape and risk everything or remain in a life of hardship and toil. Decisions to run alone, or with loved ones, in a group, with help from a ‘conductor’, when to leave, who to tell, where to go, to get help from a safe house, to stop in free state and risk capture later (after 1850) or go further to Canada. There we so many tough decisions to make and you may be separated from your loved ones but that was also a risk you took if you stayed too! Your family could be sold at any time to anyone – anywhere!
After the Civil War ended in 1865 and slaves were ‘free’, many fugitives went back to their homelands to re-connect with family. I am not sure I would have been brave enough to go back (especially all that had to be done to make it to freedom), even if I desperately wanted to see my family. I think I would have been scared to go back to the U.S. and leave the safety of Canada. Let’s face it – despite former slaves being ‘free’, many southerners’ opinions of them didn’t change right away. In fact, there was a battle in the Civil War where a Black Regiment was fighting for the North and they had to surrender to a Southern Regiment – the end was not good - unarmed Black Soldiers were slaughtered without mercy. Their only solstice was that they died standing up – and free.
Overall the trip to the Freedom Center was good but in a sad way. It is unfortunate that something like this even happened, however the celebration of the courage, determination, will, and strength of these people is inspiring.  I am extremely proud to be Canadian – and a person who lives in a place that for many was the Promised Land.
Sunday Biking
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 42km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  118km
We headed out on our bikes today. Our journey took us from our campground in East Forks/Williamsburg, OH to Milford, OH. This was about 42km. Today was a good ride - we were not chased by dogs. J The fall colours were amazing. On a few parts of the trail – the leaves were actually falling on us as we rode.
Each day that we ride, we take breaks, have some lunch, etc. along the way. Sometimes we are stopped in someone’s driveway, park, and roadside shaded areas – not unlike fugitives travelling to people’s homes in their journey north to freedom. I can’t tell you how kind everyone has been to us. Nods, encouragement, welcoming invites to share the shade of their driveway, help from other cyclists, people giving us directions… it goes on. At times, I think I am a bit jaded about human nature but so far on our trip, many wonderful people have restored my belief that there are good people in the world. J
Happy Turkey Day to all!! Rod cooked us a chicken on the BBQ – Yum!
Tomorrow we head out on the Little Miami Rail Trail (which is in Ohio). We are gradually making our way north. :-D

Sunday 9 October 2011

The Freedom Center

NOTE: Special thanks to Audrey and Rod who keep bringing me to McDonald's to update my blog! :-)
Also, I will keep trying to keep pics updated to the blogs each time - they take SO LONG to load. You may have to check back to previous posts to see updated pics. :-)
Saturday
Distance Travelled via truck: 1100km
Distance Travelled via bicycle today: 16km
Distance Travelled via bicycle TOTAL:  76km
Went to Cincinnati and to the Harriet Beecher Stowe Museum. Very interesting to learn about the woman who wrote the second best selling book ever – Uncle Tom’s Cabin. (The best selling book is the Bible).

National Underground Railroad Museum - Wow! What an amazing place. My words and pictures won’t even come close to doing this place justice. It was extremely well done and laid out in a chronological timeline of events and how the Underground Railroad worked and was able to help people.
One of the most upsetting exhibits for me was the slave pen. It was an ACTUAL slave pen taken from a man who lived in Maysville, OH. He had the pen built inside his Tobacco barn, which was why it was more or less still preserved. What a haunting place. There were two floors (men on the top floor, women on the bottom). There were rings drilled into the floor that the men were chained to. And it was about the size of a large bedroom on both levels but at times it housed up to 75 people!! The man who owned the slave pen, dealt with buying/selling slaves and he made the modern day equivalent to $800,000 a year.
Will write more about the museum tomorrow.
Audrey and I went back out on our bikes when we returned from the museums and had a short ride of about 16km. Tomorrow will be a longer ride, we plan to travel from Williamsburg, OH (just about where we are currently staying) and then to Milford, OH.

National Underground Railroad - Freedom Center

Freedom Center - outside of slave pen.


Inside the slave pen. You can see the second floor and the rings in the floor with the loops for chains to chain the slaves to the floor. This is an ACTUAL slave pen - it was moved here for the museum.
Harriet Beecher Stowe - Family Home Museum

Harriet's father's study. He was the president of the university down the road. The high prestige of this appointment meant that his family lived in this lovely home.

The living room mantel.

Many people felt that Beecher Stowe's book was entirely a work of fiction (mostly southerners trying to dispel the notion that slavery was bad) - she then wrote this book which detailed her facts and sources for her book.

Front hall - staircase - actual suitcase and boots of the Stows!